Sociologist and journalist based in Kathmandu. MA Sociology, BA Journalism and Mass Communication. Eight years teaching sociology at Campion College Nepal. Editorial Director at The Goreto.
Food & Drink
Ask someone what Nepal tastes like and they will probably say momos. Ask again after two weeks in the country and they will say dal bhat. Ask after a month and they will pause, because the honest answer is: it depends entirely on where you were. Nepal's food
Kathmandu
The contemporary art scene in Kathmandu is not large. What it is, is serious - galleries in converted courtyards, artists working with earthquake rubble, a conversation not aimed at tourists.
Trekking
The teahouse menu looks identical from Lukla to Thorong La. What's behind it - how the food gets there, what the kitchen conditions are, and why dal bhat is the only thing you should order above 3,500 metres.
Travel Planning
Nepal monsoon runs from June to September. Here is what the season actually does to the country, where to go, what to expect, and the case for going anyway.
Mustang
The restricted area permit for Upper Mustang is non-negotiable. A licensed guide used to be. In 2026, the regulations have shifted and the ground rules are different from what most trekking agencies will tell you.
Trekking
Mardi Himal follows a ridge above Pokhara that most trekkers walk straight past on their way to Annapurna Base Camp. Five days, 4,500 metres of high camp, and the point where the clouds finally clear.
Travel
Sindhupalchok lost more people in the 2015 earthquake than any other district in Nepal. A decade later, the reconstruction is still incomplete. This is what the district looks like now.
Travel
The cave monasteries above Mustang hold 55,000 square feet of painted murals dated to the 12th century. Getting inside requires a restricted area permit and some careful climbing.
Kathmandu
Kathmandu doesn't preserve its architecture so much as layer it. Newari courtyards inside office buildings, pagoda rooflines next to concrete frames, heritage sites surrounded by mid-rise construction.
Trekking
The problem with altitude sickness is that the early stages feel like tiredness or a bad night's sleep. By the time it is clearly something else, you are already in difficulty.
Travel
The part of Nepal that faces Sikkim, not Kathmandu, runs on a different clock. Tea estates at 2,000m, Rai villages, and a border that most foreign itineraries stop short of.
Travel Planning
October and November are Nepal's peak months. What nobody mentions is that pre-monsoon March to May is equally good for trekking and significantly less crowded. What each season actually changes about a trip.